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May 18, 2012 1:24 pm
May 18, 2012 1:24 pm
Subject: Re: LR 126 Bonnet release assembly
The bonnet release assembly, which sits under and behind the dash-board is shown below.
Procedure given here:
1. To remove the hinge section, there are two bolts (with washers) holding it in place to the heater box. You will need to remove radio held in place by four screws and then you have good access.
2. Next remove the square section of dash-board which holds the clock and electric window switches in place. (two screws and a small ferrule with ball bearing which can be twisted out and removed with pliers), then very carefull twisting to take off.
3. This allows good access to the top bracket on the hinge pin. There is a nut to be undone, from the rod coming through from the engine (see picture). This rod, has an L-shaped end. Before releasing the piano hinge and pin, from this rod; tie an elastic band around the L-shaped end, and attach this to a pencil or similar, to stop it disappearing into the engine.
4. At base of the hinge pin, there is another nut and bolt to undo with several washers. This allows removal of the hinge complete. The later chrome domed nut to pull bar which comes through dash was removed, and the lower pull bar assembly also withdrawn. The spring was left in situ attached to back of heater box.
5. If your bonnet release is rusted solid, you will need to knock off one of the brackets riveted to the end of the pin. Doesn't matter which one. Then leave to soak in rust releasing fluid for 24 hours. Take out periodically and wire-brush.
After all this treatment the pin was still siezed solid. So I used a punch and hammer to gradullay knock the pin out. Remember to remove burr from end of pin where it was riveted to the bracket!
The arched piano hinge is beautifully made, as was the pin, nicely machined. However, the reasons this was rusted in solid, were three fold, firstly steel-steel, and secondly the tolerances were way too tight a fit of pin to hinge tubes and finally the piano hinge itself can flex, if both bolts are not done up tight. The lower one was loose which contributed to the seizure, since the pin could not move freely.
Now that I have this release mechanism in pieces, I will turn the shaft down to allow me to insert two thin brass bushes into the hinge steel tubes.
Secondly, I will file 2 mm off both top and bottom hinges tubes, to allow a little more freedom in this setting mechanism.
Then I will spray the metal work back to original silver-gray color; re-rivet bottom part of linkage to end of steel pin and put back in car.
By the way, I know the chrome knob on the end of the bonnet pull is not original. Have managed to find one at the ever helpful ASD.
Attachments:
The bonnet release assembly, which sits under and behind the dash-board is shown below.
Procedure given here:
1. To remove the hinge section, there are two bolts (with washers) holding it in place to the heater box. You will need to remove radio held in place by four screws and then you have good access.
2. Next remove the square section of dash-board which holds the clock and electric window switches in place. (two screws and a small ferrule with ball bearing which can be twisted out and removed with pliers), then very carefull twisting to take off.
3. This allows good access to the top bracket on the hinge pin. There is a nut to be undone, from the rod coming through from the engine (see picture). This rod, has an L-shaped end. Before releasing the piano hinge and pin, from this rod; tie an elastic band around the L-shaped end, and attach this to a pencil or similar, to stop it disappearing into the engine.
4. At base of the hinge pin, there is another nut and bolt to undo with several washers. This allows removal of the hinge complete. The later chrome domed nut to pull bar which comes through dash was removed, and the lower pull bar assembly also withdrawn. The spring was left in situ attached to back of heater box.
5. If your bonnet release is rusted solid, you will need to knock off one of the brackets riveted to the end of the pin. Doesn't matter which one. Then leave to soak in rust releasing fluid for 24 hours. Take out periodically and wire-brush.
After all this treatment the pin was still siezed solid. So I used a punch and hammer to gradullay knock the pin out. Remember to remove burr from end of pin where it was riveted to the bracket!
The arched piano hinge is beautifully made, as was the pin, nicely machined. However, the reasons this was rusted in solid, were three fold, firstly steel-steel, and secondly the tolerances were way too tight a fit of pin to hinge tubes and finally the piano hinge itself can flex, if both bolts are not done up tight. The lower one was loose which contributed to the seizure, since the pin could not move freely.
Now that I have this release mechanism in pieces, I will turn the shaft down to allow me to insert two thin brass bushes into the hinge steel tubes.
Secondly, I will file 2 mm off both top and bottom hinges tubes, to allow a little more freedom in this setting mechanism.
Then I will spray the metal work back to original silver-gray color; re-rivet bottom part of linkage to end of steel pin and put back in car.
By the way, I know the chrome knob on the end of the bonnet pull is not original. Have managed to find one at the ever helpful ASD.
Attachments: