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Dec 19, 2007 1:02 pm
Dec 19, 2007 1:02 pm
Subject: Re: V12 Boiling
Thank you both for the feedback:
The radiator is in good condition, I have flushed the system with an external centrifugal pump, but not much came out. Another indication that it is clean is that the overal water temperature is low (even if there is LOCAL boiling)
Flushing the engine with an external pump did not remove much sludge either, which I also saw when I opened the sideplates after that (still all the sludge sitting there). The reason is that the flow velocity in many parts of the block is to low to remove compacted sludge.
The fan is not the problem either here (overall water temperature is low, even when local boiling occurs)
The exhaust shields, this is probably a good point for general reduction of temperatures under the bonnet, (even if I had to do much work to construct them
, I can see that the heat wrap should be better. When I do it, I will measure before and after...
Corrosion protection: I am using soft (low hardness) water with antifreeze. How does the "aluprotect" behave on the painting of the car if it gets there ? (by the way hot water plus antifreeze on the paint of my car also gives very hard to polish away spots). I am still not very convinced about the "aluprotect" or similar products, boiling water indicates me that there is a problem, to shift that temperature up would help in case of an unsufficient cooling in the radiator but to move up temperature in some corners of the cylinder head ? Another point is that boiling water cools well (highest "enthalpy of vaporization" of all liquids, if that is the right word in English)
I still believe that the deposits in the cylinder heads (may be combined with a corroded rotor of the original water pump) are the main reason for this sort of boiling. Still waiting for Eckard Fabricius to describe how he did the cleaning (he told me, but would be nice to have it here), I will ask him to post it.
Peter
Thank you both for the feedback:
The radiator is in good condition, I have flushed the system with an external centrifugal pump, but not much came out. Another indication that it is clean is that the overal water temperature is low (even if there is LOCAL boiling)
Flushing the engine with an external pump did not remove much sludge either, which I also saw when I opened the sideplates after that (still all the sludge sitting there). The reason is that the flow velocity in many parts of the block is to low to remove compacted sludge.
The fan is not the problem either here (overall water temperature is low, even when local boiling occurs)
The exhaust shields, this is probably a good point for general reduction of temperatures under the bonnet, (even if I had to do much work to construct them
, I can see that the heat wrap should be better. When I do it, I will measure before and after...Corrosion protection: I am using soft (low hardness) water with antifreeze. How does the "aluprotect" behave on the painting of the car if it gets there ? (by the way hot water plus antifreeze on the paint of my car also gives very hard to polish away spots). I am still not very convinced about the "aluprotect" or similar products, boiling water indicates me that there is a problem, to shift that temperature up would help in case of an unsufficient cooling in the radiator but to move up temperature in some corners of the cylinder head ? Another point is that boiling water cools well (highest "enthalpy of vaporization" of all liquids, if that is the right word in English)
I still believe that the deposits in the cylinder heads (may be combined with a corroded rotor of the original water pump) are the main reason for this sort of boiling. Still waiting for Eckard Fabricius to describe how he did the cleaning (he told me, but would be nice to have it here), I will ask him to post it.
Peter