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Sep 29, 2015 8:00 pm
Sep 29, 2015 8:00 pm
Subject: Re: LG45R steering column removal
Couldn't agree more about taking photos...I have recently rebuilt my steering column. I took photos but ended wishing I had taken more!
A couple of tips:
- When you split the cast aluminium housing apart to gain access to the gland nut you have to remove the four 5/16 BSF bolts at the bottom of the steering box. Suggest you remove two, take half the housing away and then refit the bolts with extra washers before removing the other half so that the bottom bearing retaining plate does not come loose until you have removed the steering column from the car and removed the drop arm from the rocker shaft. The drop arm is on a tapered spline and may be difficult to get off and you might cause damage to the rest of the box if the bottom plate is loose.
- The top and bottom bearings are available from the Club but I found the balls to be a loose fit in the bearing cage on the Club replacements and they need to be greased up to prevent the balls falling out when you reassemble.
- The cork seal on the rocker shaft is a source of leakage and can be replaced with a modern lip seal which I obtained from BRT bearings (BRTS11215025). NB: this fits the shaft ok but is a little bit loose in the housing so needs a smear of silicon sealant or Loctite bearing fit around the outside when fitting into the housing.
- I also managed to get a replacement bearing for the top of the steering column from BRT for only a few pounds. Don't be tempted to order the sealed for life version of the column bearing as this is 1/2 inch deep instead of 3/8 and does not fit.
- Whilst apart you might want to take the opportunity to clean up the horn push contacts and check the condition of the spring under the horn button
Hope the above helps
Bill
Couldn't agree more about taking photos...I have recently rebuilt my steering column. I took photos but ended wishing I had taken more!
A couple of tips:
- When you split the cast aluminium housing apart to gain access to the gland nut you have to remove the four 5/16 BSF bolts at the bottom of the steering box. Suggest you remove two, take half the housing away and then refit the bolts with extra washers before removing the other half so that the bottom bearing retaining plate does not come loose until you have removed the steering column from the car and removed the drop arm from the rocker shaft. The drop arm is on a tapered spline and may be difficult to get off and you might cause damage to the rest of the box if the bottom plate is loose.
- The top and bottom bearings are available from the Club but I found the balls to be a loose fit in the bearing cage on the Club replacements and they need to be greased up to prevent the balls falling out when you reassemble.
- The cork seal on the rocker shaft is a source of leakage and can be replaced with a modern lip seal which I obtained from BRT bearings (BRTS11215025). NB: this fits the shaft ok but is a little bit loose in the housing so needs a smear of silicon sealant or Loctite bearing fit around the outside when fitting into the housing.
- I also managed to get a replacement bearing for the top of the steering column from BRT for only a few pounds. Don't be tempted to order the sealed for life version of the column bearing as this is 1/2 inch deep instead of 3/8 and does not fit.
- Whilst apart you might want to take the opportunity to clean up the horn push contacts and check the condition of the spring under the horn button
Hope the above helps
Bill