Show whole topic Dec 02, 2018 12:47 pm
h14 Offline
Member
Registered since: Nov 30, 2008
Location: Chalandray, France


Subject: Re: LG6 Clutch
Hi Mike,

No need to remove the gearbox, you just need to move it back a little, perhaps just half an inch. The propshaft telescopes, so no need to work on that. The forward end of the gearbox is mounted on rubber bushes in aluminium castings via a through bolt. Don't unbolt that, remove the bolts holding those castings to the chassis. You will probably find there are red fibre shims between these castings and the chassis ... ensure those don't get damaged and that they are noted for original positioning. The left hand aluminium casting is inadequate in service, and often found to be broken.
The rear gearbox mounts are simply a vertical bolt each side; look out for washers serving as shims and note for original positioning. These front and rear mounting bolts enter accurately drilled holes in the chassis, so provided you ensure all shims as mentioned are replaced in their original positions, alignment should be precisely retained. The cardan shaft has a spike at each end; the purpose of this is that, if the flexible coupling shears, the shaft will not flail dramatically, but be retained within the spider. The downside of this safety arrangement is that the spike will not disengage until the gearbox is moved rearwards. It follows that you only need to move the gearbox enough to disengage that spike.
So unbolt the flexible couplings first. The gearbox is (naturally!) extremely heavy, and a trolley jack would be ideal for moving it, but if you're strong enough you should be able to move it by hand. I've attached a reduced photo of the spike in situ, but I'll email it to you separately, with others that may help. As my LG6 is a special, the entire gearbox etc is easily rendered visible!
At least, if it proves necessary, you should have reasonable access for removing the clutch cover and driven plate, no bell housing being in the way.
The firewall plaque always states the engine number as the chassis number[ the true engine number is, as you've found, stamped on the engine. The body number is stamped, scratched or pencilled on pretty well every body component. If you've removed the seats, if like my V12, you'll find it pencilled on the metal runners screwed to the base of the seat, so should be visible simply by turning a seat upside down. The easiest place to find it should be on the inner face of the actual (ie right hand side) spare wheel cover, between the catches. If like my V12, you should also find it scratched into the underside of the little chrome trim plates attached to the end of the hood frame members. If no joy, let me know and I'll investigate other locations.
Laurence

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