randall977 Feb 15, 2012 11:48 pm
Subject: Re: New Parts

Hi Guy, I'm sorry to hear that you've been having back problems, I hope you make a good recovery.

It would be my pleasure to tell you how the dash is removed, I will try and do it with a few words as possible! It is quite involved but I'm sure you expect that. I won't mention the obvious stuff which is easy to see - make sure lots of photos are taken.

1. Remove Steering wheel and remember that small alan key bolts in th boss fix the horn push so don't pull it! Remove the indicator assembly and pull through the steering column loom.

2. Remove the vinyl dash side trims under the curved sections of dash - they are glued on. These will reveal the side fixings to the A posts.

3. Carefully push back and down the rear panel of the glove box exposing one of the main dash fixings.

4. Remove either the speedo or rev counter (can't remember which) to expose another main dash fixing - location mirrors the one behind the glove box.

5. There are another two fixings centrally located above the heater box - these can be reached with a spanner whilst lying on your back.

6. All other brackets are assumed to have been released by this stage so the dash should pull forwards.

7. Release the wiring loom, disconnect everything and label, photo, now you should be able to remove the whole dash.

Next stage - taking apart the dash...see my other thread here. I'm very happy to give any advice if needed - just ask me for my number.

Christian

randall977 Feb 21, 2012 6:17 pm
Subject: Re: New Parts

That's really useful info, thanks.

Also...I've just sent my front calipers off to Ward Engineering to be refurbished. They will upgrade them to stainless pistons for £70 per piston unit. Powertrack Ltd have a stock of original new Dunlop 2 1/2" calipers for £110ea.

randall977 Mar 19, 2012 6:12 pm
Subject: Re: New Parts

Seat hinges (which are still available from Germany) - Mercedes 220S or variant

h14 Mar 19, 2012 8:43 pm
Subject: Re: New Parts

Hi Christian,

For many years my parents ran one of the very first Rover 2000s. That had Dunlop brakes, & I wonder if the Lagonda ones are the same/similar? We had no end of trouble with the cylinders rusting, & despite the central guide pin, the pistons would still tend to tip, allowing the pads to wear unevenly. New cylinders rusted in no time, then one day, a new one supplied was nickel plated. Had no problems at all, ever, with that one. Perhaps new ones now are all plated, if not, might be worth considering. The plating wasn't that thick, the outer soon rusted, but where it mattered, the cylinder walls, they were always good as new.
Laurence