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May 01, 2019 9:59 pm
29invicta Offline
Member
Registered since: Jul 07, 2017
Location: Detroit area, Michigan, USA


Subject: Re: Smiths rev counter drive off of Rotax AT146 dynamo?
Thanks Adrian -- what a beautiful engine! I've never had a chance to see ours exposed in all its glory. Is the black oval hatch panel held on by two bolts the place for adding gear oil (something I need to do as well)? Also, does that rev counter drive come out of the housing? On our picture, we'd like to somehow pull it out and open it up but we're not sure we'd be opening Pandora's Box instead. Quite a thing to behold, and I hope sometime to visit your shop if/when we ever get the car over to the UK
Ted Delphia
 

May 03, 2019 1:34 pm
Adrian Offline
Member
Registered since: Jun 04, 2015
Location: -


Subject: Re: Smiths rev counter drive off of Rotax AT146 dynamo?
Hi - - That oval plate gives access to the timing marks on the flywheel. Not knowing your version of the engine, I can't say whether it would be an issue to open it up, but I doubt it would be. Heres a photo taken before the bits were installed.



And a closer shot

 

May 05, 2019 9:23 am
h14 Offline
Member
Registered since: Nov 30, 2008
Location: Chalandray, France


Subject: Re: Smiths rev counter drive off of Rotax AT146 dynamo?
Hi Ted,
Just to add confirmation. My version of this engine is the sanction 4 type, in my LG6, so even more recent! The large threaded hole in Adrian's final photo is also where my rev counter drive emerges; your photos show that you have a circular plug with four dimples for removal by a pin-drive spanner in that location. Note that on Adrian's and my engine, there is a threaded boss for a bolt to presumably lock the brass drive adaptor in place.
Your mystery component appears to include a tap handle. I would opine that it is for a water take-off, perhaps for a heater? Is this engine original to your car? If not, be aware that these Meadows engines were used in many other applications, eg buses, tanks, marine. Whilst the basic engine would be the same, there would be differences incorporated specific to the intended application. Such engines were available, sometimes still unused and crated, until fairly recently, and were a ready and cheap alternative to rebuilding an original engine. Alternatively, parts from such engines could be incorporated as part of a rebuild. or example, I've discovered that the water pump on my engine is actually the marine version, with a bronze cover plate.

Laurence
 

May 14, 2019 9:00 pm
29invicta Offline
Member
Registered since: Jul 07, 2017
Location: Detroit area, Michigan, USA


Subject: Re: Smiths rev counter drive off of Rotax AT146 dynamo?
Thanks Laurence and Adrian... it helps to see how other engines are outfitted to get a sense of what we might be able to do. As far as I know this is the original engine to the chassis, at least according to the number plate on the crankcase cover (it's engine No. 7223 for reference). As for the water cock, if it can supply heated water that would be a nice option to have for any kind of future heater. Seeing as how the car spent most of its pre and post war years in Nigeria, I'm sure heating was not really a consideration, but it would be nice here in Michigan. My next step is to find a kind of spanner or wrench that can take off that lid, and see what's down there... anything I should be looking for?
Ted Delphia
 

May 15, 2019 9:22 am
h14 Offline
Member
Registered since: Nov 30, 2008
Location: Chalandray, France


Subject: Re: Smiths rev counter drive off of Rotax AT146 dynamo?
Hi Ted,
You need a pin spanner/wrench for that. You might get away with using a hammer and punch, provided you accept there's a fair possibility of damage to that "plug". That said, if you are replacing the plug with a rev counter drive, damage to the plug is less of a concern. A suitable pin spanner could be made fairly easily with basic equipment. Find four screws that fit snugly in the holes in the plug, make a template accurately transferring the hole position in the plug. Then find a suitable piece of steel of adequate thickness and length, drill and tap for those screws, using your template to accurately match the plug hole positions, screw the screws in so that they protrude slightly more than the depth of the holes in the plug ... and voila! You have your pin spanner. It's not something you are likely to be able to buy ready made. All this said, if it's really tight, bearing in mind it has probably never been undone since 1930 odd, you might need to at least get it started with that hammer and punch.
Laurence
 

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